Wednesday, July 16, 2008

I hate goodbyes!

I'm back in Bamako, after waking up at 3 a.m. to catch the 4:30 bus (which didn't leave until 5:30...grrrr!). I left Segou this morning after spending all day yesterday traveling around town saying goodbye to everyone I've known for the past two years. It's been an emotional rollercoaster this past week.
After Patty and Maria left last Saturday morning, I stayed in Bamako one more day to meet up with Steffen. He was on his way to Germany then Florida to visit his fiance Danielle. Since he won't be returning to Mali until mid-August, we had one last dinner in Bamako and said our goodbyes. That was the first time I cried. The next day (Sunday), I spent eight hours trying to bus back to Segou. Once I finally got back into town, I met up with all my Peace Corps friends in my region for a goodbye party. It was really fun to see them all again -- especially since it was the last time all of us would be together in Mali. On Monday, I began packing and sifting through two years of paperwork and what not. I also gave away Jaba and Gus....Jaba went to my friend Tamara (who's extending for a third year in the city of San), and Gus went to Kyle (who's extending for a third year in Bamako...although I think my friend Kate's eventually going to take him when she can meet up with Kyle). It broke my heart to give them away -- that was by far the most I've cried since being here. It's too bad that my new apartment in Ann Arbor doesn't take pets...I would have loved to take them back to the US. I also said goodbye to Emily, Kyle and Casey that day (as well as the employees at CARE, where I taught English), so I was pretty much an emotional wreck for the whole day. Tuesday, I woke up early to begin saying goodbye to everyone. I started at the CRPA, where I met with all my coworkers and Mme. Koumare. We all said a few words, exchanged some gifts and said our goodbyes.
(Amadou, Kalifa, Mme. Koumare, me, Mariam and Keita...all the CRPA employees)
Afterwards, Mme. Koumare and I went out to Masseye's house (the president of Yiriwaso, the women's tailoring school where I did that accounting project). Masseye was just recently married, and by custom she was staying at home for 15 days after the wedding. She gave me a necklace and a pagne, and we exchanged our blessings. I barely made it out of there without crying (Malians don't cry in public, so I was trying not to make them feel awkward).
(Mme. Koumare, Masseye's grandmother, Masseye and me at her home)
After Masseye's house, Mme. Koumare and I stopped at a "rotisserie" restaurant and shared a giant plate of liver (I think!) and onions. It was our last meal together, so I enjoyed it (despite not really liking liver). We then moved onto Nieleni, a women's cooperative that produces bogolan, fruit syrups, and wool rugs. They presented me with even more gifts -- I was shocked but touched at how generous everyone was as I was saying goodbye potentially for good. It's amazing how I didn't realize what close friendships and bonds I'd made with people until it was time to leave them. Finally, I went home to finish packing. I walked around my neighborhood and said goodbye to all my neighbors. I also took a break around lunch time to visit Club des Meres (where I did the boutique renovation). Again, I was presented with a cute purse and more gifts. I also gave them the pens, crayons, watercolor paints, and rulers that Maria and Patty brought over, since they also run an elementary school next to their boutique. They were so happy to receive the gifts. They wanted me to thank Maria and Patty...so thanks guys!
(Djelica, the woman near my house who sells onions, peppers, dried fish, peanut butter, etc.)
I was planning to leave Segou last night, and my friend Karim came over to see me off. But my guard, Issa, was nowhere to be found. I couldn't leave forever without saying goodbye (we've been living next to each other since December), so I waited and missed the last bus. But it worked out, because I got to go out to a nice last dinner with Yuri in town, and I ended up saying goodbye to about 10 other people that I wouldn't have had the opportunity to do otherwise. A lot of Malians exchanged email addresses with me (times are a-changin'), and some even asked for my phone number in the US. So, Mom and Dad, if you get any random phone calls from Bambara-speaking West Africans asking for Djeneba, you'll know they're for me! :-) I already can think of dozens of people that I didn't say a final goodbye to, but I guess that's what happens when you live in a city of more than 100,000 people. It's been pretty emotional, and I haven't even left the country yet! Now I'm in Bamako trying to do all my final paperwork, medical check ups and everything else (not to mention hanging out with my friends who've come into Bamako to see me off). I know these next two days are going to fly by, and I'll be back in Seattle sipping a Starbucks by Saturday!

Friday, July 11, 2008

The Dasovich Invasion

I cannot believe I only have one week left in Mali. It seems so surreal right now. Actually, a lot of things seem surreal. Maria and Patty (#1 and #5 out of the Dasovich daughters) have been here for the past 9 days. We've been having a blast; although Maria got sick on day 3 and we had to completely replan our trip. It all worked out in the end. I got to show them a lot more of Segou than I'd originally planned, which was really fun. Now they have a great idea of what my day-to-day life has been like in my city.
They flew in at 3 am on the 3rd, and we stayed in a really nice hotel (it was the first elevator I've ridden in since leaving America!). We missed the bus the following day, so we stayed an extra day in Bamako, which we filled with eating at nice restaurants and hanging out with the numerous other volunteers who'd come in town to celebrate the Fourth.
On the Fourth of July, we hitched a ride with a Peace Corps SUV that was traveling up country through Segou. In Segou, we immediately went to my office and ate lunch with Mme. Koumare, which was really fun. Mme. Koumare named Maria "Maimouna Samake" (after herself) and Patty "Aoua Samake" (after her mother). She even made a special "tiga dige na" (peanut-butter sauce) that was vegetarian for Maria. Patty and Maria had a blast meeting her and seeing where I worked. And Maria and Patty got to try out eating with their hands.

(lunch time with Mme. Koumare and Keita)

(Me and Mme. Koumare showin' them how it's done!)

That evening we had a small party at my house to celebrate Independence Day. We bbq-ed burgers with Steffen's grill and ate pasta salad. Maria and Patty got to meet basically all my Peace Corps friends. They also got to see some pretty cool large bugs that decided to join the party.

(the unwanted visitor...after Gus had played with it for a few hours)

The next morning, Maria woke up with a fever, so instead of taking the six-hour bus ride to Sevare, we stayed in Segou and relaxed. We actually stayed in Segou for a few more days until she had recovered...but in that time I took them out to meet basically all the people I've been working with. The women at Sininyesigi even gave Patty and Maria indigo-dyed scarves as presents. All the Malians were super happy to meet my "koromussow" (older sisters).

(Korotimi with Maria and Patty and their new scarves)

Our final morning in Segou, we went out for a pirogue boat ride with Karim right at sunrise. It was beautiful.

(Patty and Maria on the pirogue)

We saw tons of cool birds and got to chill out on the Niger for a couple hours.

(my house from the Niger)

After the boat ride, we hopped on a four-hour bus to Bamako, then got transport to Siby (one hour south of Bamako). I think this was unquestionably their most favorite part of the trip.

(the arch near Siby)

(on the hike up the cliff)

We hiked up to the arch, which only took about 1 1/2 hours. Then we explored all over the cliffs, and even hiked up to the top of the arch. We ate lunch up there and goofed around all day.

(a closer view of the arch)

(on top of the arch)

(Patty goofing off in a cave)

It was great to show them a side of Mali away from the main cities -- especially since they missed out on Dogon country. We stayed two nights in Siby, eating not much more than beans, pasta, mangoes and zabans (a Malian fruit...it's pretty sour, like a SweetTart). It was really fun.

(can you spot Patty??)

Today we woke up and left Siby for Bamako. We spent the day wandering around the huge artisan market, buying necklaces and other things. I got to show off my sharp (or not-so-sharp...you'll have to ask Patty and Maria!) barganing skills a lot during the whole trip. It was so great to share everything with them, and I'm sad that they're flying back tonight. But I'll be home (back in Seattle) on the 19th, so I'll soon be following them!