La Poterie de Kalabougou

Today I finally made it out of Ségou and onto the Niger River. I took a pirogue (those long boats you see in all my sunset pics) 17k up river to the village of Kalaobougou. I have been trying to do this for over a month, but some obstacle has always gotten in my way until now. This is very common in Mali – EVERYTHING (from laundry to projects) takes about 12 times longer to accomplish over here. The women of Kalabougou have created an artisan association that specializes in pottery. They use a traditional method of firing the pots by piling tons and tons of sticks and brush onto the pots and lighting it all on fire. This huge bonfire heats up the pots enough to solidify them. This method is much less environmentally friendly and produces lower-quality products than using a kiln, but it also is a fairly big tourist attraction. The women actually want to build a kiln and learn how to use it – a project that my predecessor started working on. But, once again, many obstacles have blocked that project from becoming complete. I hope that during my two years I’ll be able to complete the project that they started.

(A woman sculpting the clay -- she was very friendly)

Anyway, I went to Kalabougou with some friends and a guide. The guide took us through the whole village. We met the village chief, as well as all the women working on the various stages of pottery creation. Everyone in the village is very used to tourists, which can be a downside when the children follow you everywhere demanding things (“give me money/a present/your water bottle, etc.). But I’m used to this, since Ségou is also very touristy and all the kids are like that here as well.

(Some pots I saw in a family's concession)

(Women creating the piles of brush for the fire. The pots are underneath the piles)

The flames from the fire were the larges I’ve ever stood next to. The smoke darkened the sky. Despite the heat radiating from the three giant bonfires (as well as the midday sun), the women would run right up to the flames and throw more grass on the piles.

(The fire)

After the fires died down a bit, we decided to head back. The kids followed us all the way to the pirogue. When we got on the pirogue, they ran in the river and followed next to the boat until it was too deep for them to continue. We crossed the river just as the sun was setting – the perfect way to end a great adventure!

(The pirogue ride back to Ségou)