Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas to everyone!! I got to spend Christmas with a few friends who came into Ségou. We planned to start the celebration with midnight mass (I conveniently live across the street from the Catholic mission district). My language tutor had told me that midnight mass was where it’s at as far as Christmas in Mali, so we were all excited to have the experience. Since most of us volunteers go to sleep by 9, we kept each other awake by playing charades and drinking Cokes. We got dressed up in our finest Malian clothes (or whatever we had) and walked over to the church at 11:30. We weren’t sure just how crowded it would be, so we made sure to get there early.

(From left to right: Emily, Louie, Gretchen, Yuri, Steffen, Mario (Steffen's uncle visiting from Germany), Steffen's sister also visiting (I forgot her name...something German), Danielle)

As we approached the church, we saw CROWDS of people outside the church. There literally were huge trucks packed full of Malians, and kids running around lighting off fireworks in the middle of everyone. We couldn’t believe it was already so packed that this many people were stuck outside! We made our way through the crowd and got our first glimpse inside the church – it was completely EMPTY. After talking with the priest (who was also outside), we discovered that midnight mass had started at 10:30! D’oh! We sulked back to my house and decided to try again in the morning. My mood cheered up considerably though when I got to talk to all my sisters and my parents at midnight. Then I crashed and prepared to wake up for Round 2 of church. We all woke up early and made it to church before they’d even opened the doors (we were determined). Mass lasted from 9-11, and the choir was rockin’! They had pink and white scarves that they’d wave in the air during the choruses of the songs, and at one point a bunch of kids got up and danced in a circle as everyone clapped and sang faster and faster.

(Christmas morning...Emily is opening a HUGE care package from her whole family)

After church we made pancakes at my house. We splurges and bought powdered sugar, and Yuri opened up the maple syrup that his aunt had sent him from Canada. It was a treat! I took my traditional post-holiday-feast nap after breakfast (I couldn’t help it), and everyone else went to the grand market to buy ingredients for dinner.

(Gretchen, Emily and Louie bleaching and peeling veggies for the salad)

We spent the majority of the day preparing food to bring over to Steffen’s Christmas potluck. The potluck was great – we had five chickens, spaghetti, rice, mashed potatoes and gravy, salad and veggies. There was a mix of Americans, Germans and Malians who all came and ate.

(Dinner time)

I even got to bake the cookies from the mix that Cindy had sent over (thanks again Cindy!!). We also had no-bake cheesecake and pumpkin pie (made from a mix) from other volunteer’s care packages. It was a long but very fun day!

La Poterie de Kalabougou

Today I finally made it out of Ségou and onto the Niger River. I took a pirogue (those long boats you see in all my sunset pics) 17k up river to the village of Kalaobougou. I have been trying to do this for over a month, but some obstacle has always gotten in my way until now. This is very common in Mali – EVERYTHING (from laundry to projects) takes about 12 times longer to accomplish over here. The women of Kalabougou have created an artisan association that specializes in pottery. They use a traditional method of firing the pots by piling tons and tons of sticks and brush onto the pots and lighting it all on fire. This huge bonfire heats up the pots enough to solidify them. This method is much less environmentally friendly and produces lower-quality products than using a kiln, but it also is a fairly big tourist attraction. The women actually want to build a kiln and learn how to use it – a project that my predecessor started working on. But, once again, many obstacles have blocked that project from becoming complete. I hope that during my two years I’ll be able to complete the project that they started.

(A woman sculpting the clay -- she was very friendly)

Anyway, I went to Kalabougou with some friends and a guide. The guide took us through the whole village. We met the village chief, as well as all the women working on the various stages of pottery creation. Everyone in the village is very used to tourists, which can be a downside when the children follow you everywhere demanding things (“give me money/a present/your water bottle, etc.). But I’m used to this, since Ségou is also very touristy and all the kids are like that here as well.

(Some pots I saw in a family's concession)

(Women creating the piles of brush for the fire. The pots are underneath the piles)

The flames from the fire were the larges I’ve ever stood next to. The smoke darkened the sky. Despite the heat radiating from the three giant bonfires (as well as the midday sun), the women would run right up to the flames and throw more grass on the piles.

(The fire)

After the fires died down a bit, we decided to head back. The kids followed us all the way to the pirogue. When we got on the pirogue, they ran in the river and followed next to the boat until it was too deep for them to continue. We crossed the river just as the sun was setting – the perfect way to end a great adventure!

(The pirogue ride back to Ségou)

Time is Flying!

Well, I am almost done with my first three months of service! I can hardly believe it -- time is flying by. Before I know it, I'll be back in the States wondering if this was all a dream! I have gotten into a routine of working from 9 to 1, and either eating lunch with Mme. Coumaré at the CRPA or with Yuri at a rice and sauce joint. (The "tigadigena" is delicious -- it's a peanut sauce that they put on white rice. A ka di, kosobé kosobé!). The rest of the day is spent cleaning, cooking, washing laundry by hand, or drinking tea and hanging out with Malians and other volunteers in the area.

(my service, the CRPA -- le centre régional de la promotion de l'artisanat)

(my desk -- I actually share it with everyone else, so it's not really MY desk)

(the son of Amadou -- the man who lives where the CRPA office is. The office is located in his family's concession.)

I have rapidly been improving my French skills. My French lessons with my tutor have transformed from real lessons in verb tenses and what not to 1-hour conversations about various subjects. He corrects me when I mess up and helps me figure out how to say what I want to say, but at least I'm having semi-intellectual conversations! We're learning about each other's cultures quite a bit this way, which is an added benefit.

Well, I only have three minutes left before I get kicked off the internet, but I'll definitely put up another blog soon -- probably about Christmas. My language tutor actually just gave me a French Bible. Très gentil!!! J'étais très contente. (I was very happy).

I'll leave with a couple more random pics:

(women outside of Yuri's house selling fried plantains and hanging out)

(Praying mantis that keeps sneaking into my house and chilling on my couch)

I can't get enough of the sunsets!!

So here's more sunset pics that I took last week. The sunsets have been absolutely incredible lately. Enjoy!!