Sunday, May 13, 2007

It's Wedding Season...

On May 13th I took a bachée down to Banankoro, my old homestay village (bachée = another fun form of Malian public transportation -- picture a big, green van with wooden benches lining the back instead of normal seats...now picture cramming 24 people onto those benches. Literally, 24 -- I counted. Well, there actually were 25 of us if you include the chicken sitting on one of the guy's laps. I would've taken a picture if I could have moved my arms enough to get my camera out). My oldest brother, Sadio Samaké, was getting married. He called me a few weeks ago to tell me the good news, and I promised him I'd be there for the wedding.

(Me with the bride and groom)

I got to Banankoro around 10 am, and after greeting my old family, they led me to the school where Sadio and his bride-to-be, Wulematu, were signing the official papers. I couldn't see anything, and there were griots (Malians who sing and dance and tell stories of family histories) singing the whole time in Bambara.

(Sadio and Wulematu driving away from the school)
After the official stuff, we all headed back to our house for the party. There was a DJ and music blasting out of giant speakers. The younger people were dancing, and the older people were sitting around talking or preparing lunch. I have never seen so much rice at one time! They fed about 200 people lunch, and they were cooking out of GIANT pots, stirring the rice with two-foot ladels! Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture.

(Wulematu -- my host mom -- and Suri, her grandson)

It was really fun. I love my homestay family, so it was awesome to see them all again. I couldn't believe how much they've all grown! Aminata (my 13-year-old sister) is practically a woman now. Salimata (my 3-year-old sis) is now old enough to help out the family and carry babies on her back -- although I still carried her almost everywhere and she sat on my lap the whole time.

(Salimata with a baby half her size on her back)

And Suri (the baby who always was terrified of me) is a toddler now! It made me realize just how long I've been in country. Time has been moving so fast; I can't believe I've been out of America for almost a year!

(Suri)

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Mali's in The Economist!

Hey everyone! As you may or may not know, Mali just re-elected their president, Amadou Toumani Toure (or as everyone calls him, ATT) for another five years. Presidents hold five-year terms here, and can only serve twice. Being in Peace Corps, I was not allowed to discuss politics with Malians, but it was interesting to observe the campaign and election process (campaigning didn't even begin until 1-2 months before the election).
ATT won with a 70-percent vote, although only about a third of registered voters actually cast their ballots. Some opponents' supporters cried foul at the elections and protested the results; however, they were determined to be "free, fair and just," so ATT is officially the winner.
Anyway, if you're interested in reading a decent article on Mali's politics/economic status, read on... :-)
And here's an unrelated photo -- I spent the last couple days at a Junior Achievement training. Peace Corp's pairing up w/Junior Achievement International to launch a program here in Mali (JA a non-profit organization where professionals volunteer to teach basic economics in grade school classes. I actually volunteered for JA in Bothell before coming here). Unfortunately, the woman who was supposed to lead the training cancelled last minute (she was supposed to fly in from Egypt), so Peace Corps asked me and Yuri to help lead the training! (We both did JA in the States.) We found out the night before, and we basically had no materials. The training went alright, but it wasn't as good as it could have been -- we really needed the JA woman there. But it worked out. Here's the photo of the first Junior Achievement volunteers ever in Mali:
And now, the Economist article...
Mali and Mauritania: Swathes of desert but oases of progress
May 3rd 2007 BAMAKO AND NOUAKCHOTT
Two dirt-poor Saharan states are doing better
WHILE its richer and grander neighbours quarrel and cheat, modest Mali looks askance at Côte d'Ivoire (struggling to reunite a divided country) and Nigeria (making a hash of democracy again), as it makes quiet progress. As a result, on April 29th its people re-elected their president, Amadou Toumani Touré, for a second five-year stint in office. Meanwhile, Mali's almost equally poor and sandy neighbour to the west, Mauritania, has had a similar success, with its first free election since independence in 1960.
Political progress apart, their economies both have a very long way to go. Ranked third from the bottom in the UN's world human-development index, Mali is a tough place to live. Infant mortality is among the world's highest, adult literacy among the lowest. Some 12m-strong, Malians on average earn less than $400 a year. Although most farm, only a quarter of the land is productive—and is being eaten away by the Sahara desert as it creeps south. To make matters worse, Mali has been hit by drought and a plague of locusts. Its cotton industry is fading. Civil strife in Côte d'Ivoire has disrupted its main outlet to the sea.
Still, other things have been improving. Mali's election was the fourth in a row after decades of dictatorship. Mr Touré, who seized power in a coup in 1991 before handing power back to civilians a year later, avoided politics for a decade before returning to power in 2002.
Since then, known simply as ATT or more grandly as “the soldier of democracy”, Mr Touré has fostered a system of government by consensus. He belongs to no party but is supported by a coalition of 44 of them. His seven challengers all have representatives in government. “We think that when all the players are brought together we can avoid useless politicking,” he declared before the election. “Western confrontational democracy would not be a good thing in our country because it risks degenerating into regionalism, factionalism and ethnicity.”
Not everyone in Mali agrees—and the notion that adversarial politics means chaos has often been cited as justification for dictators elsewhere on the continent. Mr Touré's opponents have cried foul, complaining that soldiers were told who to vote for, ballot papers were floating around before election day and voter lists were inaccurate, with many dead still on the register. But most foreign and local observers said the poll was fair enough.
With its cotton industry withering, Mali is now Africa's third-biggest producer of gold. It also hopes, in the next five years or so, to produce oil. Mr Touré, a champion of mechanisation, wants to increase Mali's output of cereals from 3m tonnes today to 10m by 2012. Donors are rewarding Mali's quiet progress with hundreds of millions of dollars of aid. In the forefront is the United States, which sees Mali as a key ally in its war on terror in the region.
Coups d'état are frowned on these days in Africa. But the one in Mauritania seems so far to have turned out nicely, even for those who were rudest about it at the time. Nineteen months after he ousted President Maaouya Taya, who had clung on to power for over two decades, Colonel Ely Vall graciously left office a month ago.
Most of sand-blasted Mauritania's 3m inhabitants are also dirt-poor, despite their country's abundance of iron ore, fish and, more recently, oil, though their GDP per head, at $530, is higher than Mali's. They are now looking to their new ruler, Sidi Ould Sheikh Abdellahi, to improve their lot. The election he won in March was Mauritania's first free one since independence 47 years ago. Hope has risen in a Saharan country that, like Mali, straddles Arab and black Africa. Governments in Africa, Europe and America voiced their disapproval when Colonel Vall took power in a bloodless coup in August 2005. But he kept his promise to hold an election in which no coup leader would compete. The transition has been smooth, authoritarian rule has been softened and the polls—free and fair—took place earlier than originally planned.
The United States lambasted the military takeover. But John Negroponte, its deputy secretary of state, was on hand last month to praise both the colonel and the new president, promising to renew aid and to bump up military co-operation, not least because Mauritania—like Mali—is an ally in America's war on terror in Africa.
Mauritania's new president promises to tackle poverty and injustice. Under a calm surface, social tensions are strong. Mauritania's conservative ruling class has a poor record. Vast villas behind high walls in the capital, Nouakchott, testify to the wealth of the country's Moorish elite. Bubbling frustration in the slums, particularly among black Africans, may boil over if things do not improve. Mr Abdellahi, who hails from the long-dominant white Moorish establishment, may struggle to convince people he will break with the past.
“It was good the soldiers came and went,” says Amadou, a taxi driver sipping sweet mint tea.
“They say they will change things—but we will see.” Mauritania's full diplomatic relations with Israel are popular in Washington but less so back home. Clashes between African and Arab Mauritanians in 1989 and 1990 led to tens of thousands of blacks fleeing or being deported. It is unclear whether Mr Abdellahi will let them back.
His trickiest task will be to tackle slavery, which has resisted three attempts at abolition. The last law, in 1981, banned it but failed to criminalise it. However much it is denied, an ancient system of bondage, with black slaves passed on from generation to generation, still plainly exists. Copyright © 2007 The Economist Newspaper and The Economist Group. All rights reserved.

Monday, May 07, 2007

My Birthday and Cinqo de Mayo

I am officially in my mid-twenties (Insert comment from all my older sisters and friends about how young I am). My birthday was great -- about 10 volunteers came in and celebrated with me. My friend Beth took me out for ice cream (I got a mango scoop and a pistachio scoop -- oh, how I miss ice cream). Yuri gave me a giant packet of Oreos and is planning to take me out to dinner in Bamako. Kyle took me out to lunch and gave me a mini-packet of Oreos (did I mention I constantly crave Oreos??). We all went to Steffen and Danielle's house for a spaghetti dinner. And Miguel baked a cake (courtesy of Cindy's care package). They even bought candles!

(Julia and Kyle preparing salad for Cinqo de Mayo dinner)

(Miguel, Yuri, Beth and Christy making enchilladas. I like the laser-beam-thing coming out of Miguel's eye)
On Saturday, Steffen and Danielle had the "big party." It was mostly for Cinqo de Mayo -- we made enchilladas from scratch (including the tortillas), which turned out amazing. Even more volunteers showed up for this party, plus a few German ex-pats came out. In the middle of it, they blindfolded me and led me to the backyard area. Then they let me open my eyes and I was standing in the center of four sparkler-type candles with everyone singing happy birthday. (The giant sparklers were courtesy of Tony -- the Lebanese guy who owns the Toubab "supermarket" in Segou.) It was pretty funny. I'll put up a few pictures once I get my camera and a computer in the same room with each other.

(Some of us posing on the couch)

(Louie, Christy, Mary Virginia and Tamara rocking out to early '90's jams)

Other than that, I've been preparing to go to Ghana with Mme. Koumare and Adama (he works at the CRAS, the artisan union). We are going to attend a two-day "handicrafts exporting training" that is being held in Accra by the West African Trade Hub (WATH). I'm excited for it, although I'm not too excited about the 2-3 day bus trip down there -- especially since we're still in hot season! I'm sure I'll have some more bus stories to share once that's over!
After the training, I will be traveling around Ghana, Togo and Benin to soak up as much ocean as possible. It should be a nice vacation. I'm excited to see a more "tropical" part of Africa, especially since Mali has dried out and turned into a gian dust bowl. :-)